A morning at the market

We don't write the menu weeks ahead. We write most of it after the market, around what looked best that morning — the tomatoes that were actually ripe, the fish that came in whole and clear-eyed.

It means the printed sheet changes often, sometimes between lunch and dinner. Regulars have learned to ask what's good today rather than looking for the thing they had last time.

Cooking this way keeps the kitchen honest. You can't hide a tired ingredient over a live fire.